Bare Root Trees

• Timing: January–February only
• Why: Trees are fully dormant, minimizing transplant shock
• Best for: Peaches, plums, pears, apples
• Advantage: Lower cost, wider variety selection

Container Trees

• Timing: October–March (most flexible)
• Avoid: Peak summer heat (June–August)
• Best for: Figs, pomegranates, citrus, berries
• Advantage: Year-round availability, established root ball

Winter (December–February) — Planting & Dormancy

• Plant bare root fruit trees (January–February)
• Transplant container trees and berry bushes
• Prune deciduous trees while dormant (peaches, plums, pears)
• Apply dormant oil spray to control overwintering pests
• Minimal watering needed—monitor soil moisture weekly
• Prepare planting sites: amend soil, improve drainage
• Order bare root stock early for best selection

Spring (March–May) — Growth & Bloom

• Trees break dormancy—watch for bud swell and flowering
• Fertilize established trees as new growth emerges
• Monitor for late frost risk (protect blooms if needed)
• Begin pest monitoring: aphids, scale, fungal diseases
• Thin fruit on peaches and plums for larger, healthier crops
• Increase watering frequency as temperatures rise
• Mulch around trees to conserve moisture
• Harvest early strawberries and blackberries

Summer (June–August) — Survival & Harvest

• Deep watering 2–3 times per week during extreme heat
• Maintain 3–4 inch mulch layer to reduce soil temperature
• Harvest figs, peaches, grapes, and blackberries
• Avoid planting new trees—focus on keeping existing plants alive
• Monitor for spider mites, leaf scorch, and drought stress
• Provide afternoon shade for young or stressed trees if possible
• Reduce or eliminate fertilizer during peak heat

Fall (September–November) — Planting & Preparation

• Plant container trees and berry bushes (October–November)
• Prepare soil for winter bare root planting
• Harvest pomegranates, persimmons, late figs, and jujubes
• Reduce watering frequency as temperatures cool
• Apply fall fertilizer to established trees
• Monitor for fall webworms and other pests
• Plan next year's orchard layout and variety selection
• Order bare root trees for January delivery

Figs

• Celeste: Small, sweet fruit; extremely heat and drought tolerant; reliable producer
• Brown Turkey: Larger fruit, two crops per year, excellent fresh or dried
• Texas Everbearing: Prolific, long harvest season, thrives in alkaline soil

Why they work: Figs tolerate heat, require minimal chill hours, and produce reliably even in poor soil.

Peaches

• June Gold: Early harvest, low chill requirement, excellent flavor
• Elberta: Classic mid-season variety, large fruit, good for canning
• Tex Royal: Very early, disease resistant, bred for Texas conditions

Why they work: Low chill varieties (300–500 hours) suited to mild winters; harvest before peak summer heat.

Blackberries

• Natchez: Thornless, large berries, early harvest, excellent flavor
• Ouachita: Thornless, disease resistant, productive and reliable
• Kiowa: Largest berries, thorny but worth it, late season

Why they work: Bred for Southern heat, thornless varieties simplify harvest, productive in small spaces.

Grapes

• Black Spanish: Heat and disease tolerant, excellent for wine or fresh eating
• Blanc du Bois: White grape, Pierce's disease resistant, good for wine
• Champanel: Native hybrid, extremely vigorous, tolerates poor soil

Why they work: Muscadine and hybrid varieties resist Pierce's disease, a major grape killer in Texas.

Pomegranates

• Wonderful: Industry standard, large fruit, excellent juice quality
• Texas Pink: Adapted to Texas, sweet-tart flavor, ornamental value

Why they work: Extremely heat and drought tolerant once established; thrive in alkaline soil.

Persimmons

• Fuyu: Non-astringent, eat firm like an apple, reliable producer
• Hachiya: Astringent until soft, excellent for baking, larger fruit

Why they work: Minimal pest issues, beautiful fall color, extend harvest into late fall.

Understand Your Microclimate

• Sun exposure: Most fruit trees need 6–8 hours of direct sun, but afternoon shade helps in extreme heat
• Wind protection: North-facing walls or windbreaks protect tender blooms from late frosts
• Soil drainage: Raised beds or mounded planting prevents root rot in heavy clay
• Cold pockets: Low-lying areas collect cold air—avoid planting frost-sensitive crops there

Water Management Strategies

• Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth
• Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are more efficient than overhead watering
• Mulch is essential—3–4 inches of wood chips conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature
• Newly planted trees need weekly watering for the first year, even in winter
• Established trees can tolerate drought but produce better with consistent moisture

Combine Early, Mid, and Late Crops

A well-planned orchard includes:

• Early producers: Strawberries, early peaches (harvest before heat)
• Mid-season crops: Blackberries, figs, grapes (summer harvest)
• Late producers: Pomegranates, persimmons (fall harvest)

This strategy spreads out harvest labor, reduces waste, and provides fresh fruit across multiple seasons.

Start Small and Expand

Begin with 3–5 proven varieties suited to your space and experience level. Figs, pomegranates, and blackberries are excellent starter crops—low maintenance, productive, and forgiving. Add more challenging crops (peaches, grapes) as you gain experience.

Plan for Pollination

Some fruit trees require cross-pollination (apples, pears, plums). Plant at least two compatible varieties within 50 feet of each other. Self-fertile varieties (figs, pomegranates, most peaches) simplify planning for small spaces.